Hong Kong … Where I Hunt The Neon Dumpling

Hong Kong. Holy Hell. I love this town.

Three reasons why:

No. 1: NEEEEEEEEEON. NEON! Ahem … Neon.

Let’s put it this way … if Hong Kong gave birth to Las Vegas, Hong Kong would be all Chinese-parent-disappointed in Vegas for its lack of neon initiative. (Hong Kong’s a Tiger Mom)

The Star Ferry is iconic and cheap and if you hop on board at 8pm, you can catch the free light show put on by all the buildings. Yep. That’s right. At some point in history, someone in Hong Kong looked at someone else in Hong Kong and had this conversation:

Guy: “We should contact all the buildings that have amazing neon and make a pact to push our “blinky blinky insanity party” buttons at the very same time. We could create a city-wide light show for the people on the Star Ferry.”

Other Guy: “Hell yeah! Let’s do it at 8pm.”

Guy: “Done and done! New Yorkers are gonna be so jealous!”

Me: What?! You guys have a light show? Nyc sucks.

Reason Numero Dos: Dumplings

I’m now a dumpling … shaped like a Panda … who ate too many dumplings. I have dumpling addiction. I’m gonna name my next cat “Dumpling.” I have dumpling still lodged in a back molar. And I like it there.

You can obviously eat these little gooey orbs of pork and prawn all over town, but someone told us to hit up Din Tai Fung – which is a chain that originated in Taiwan but has now spread around the world. It was a solid meal. No regrets. Maybe not worth waiting too long – and occasionally people wait a while here.

However, my favorite dumplings were actually our first of Hong Kong. They made by this lovely lady, at Dumpling Yuan in the Wan Chai neighborhood.

The spot is very local, crowded and loud. You sit on tiny wobbly chairs and focus on your food. It’s too loud to really converse, and you’ll be eyeing your share of the dumplings to make sure your friends don’t steal them. Don’t play with your food here, because they charge you for napkins.

Final Reason I want to move to Hong Kong: The Bar Scene

Solo travel is hard and rewarding and lonely and lovely. To varying degrees. In different ways. At different times.

For multiple reasons, I don’t really go out drinking when I’m traveling alone. I’ll have one, but usually no more. I like to keep my wits about me, and I also like to get up early and shoot in the morning light. Plus, it’s kind of boring drinking by yourself.

For all these reasons, I hadn’t been out in ages. Hong Kong, filled with friends, was somewhat of a bender. Sue me. Big thanks to Chris Page who planned a ton of things and then also agreed to just stumble from cocktail spot to cocktail spot in the name of work. (And who also magically sweet-talked some lady into giving us an entire bowl of premium olives … in Hong Kong … at 1 am. They were amazing). And to Charles Munat, who took us to a few places I wouldn’t have found otherwise and provided some great expat cocktail introductions to his town.

I really adore the bar scene in Hong Kong partially because it’s not as easy as walking into a place. You have to hunt for the best bars, which might be hidden inside unmarked buildings, down alleys or tucked behind hotel lobbys. Here’s a few places to drink:

Angel’s Share (vibe: you want a glass of whiskey, neat, and some sexy talk)

Honi Honi Tiki bar (vibe: you’re dead tired and need a couch and a Mai Tai. Their Mai Tai needs more orgeat, but the overall it’s a happy little spot)

Brickhouse (vibe: You slip down a dark alley to an indoor/outdoor Mexican restaurant/bar with excellent Margaritas and a decent tequila list. Chow into some Mexican corn on a stick with chili mayo, sprinkled cheese and lime juice)

The Backyard at Langham Place (vibe: You and your girlfriends want to do some shopping and then get hammered. It’s a one stop, behind a huge mall, attached to a posh hotel. Big red couches await you outside, underneath trees adorned with Chinese lanterns. Don’t skip the appetizers here and come at Happy Hour, when the deals are prime. Free Champagne upgrades? Apparently that’s a thing)

Ori-gin (vibe: Ya know. It’s that everything-was-once-British, we-love-colonial-stuff, infused-aged-carbonated-gins, silver-jiggers, teak-and-tonics type scene. Nerd out and have a Last Word with Martin Miller’s.

A Staircase. Any Staircase. (vibe: Is it legal to drink outside in Hong Kong? I’m not sure. But according to … oh … everyone, open container is largely ignored if not actually legal. Some of the best beers I had were from the 7-11. Grab a six-pack and find an empty outdoor staircase in between some buildings. Talk about life. Laugh. Appreciate that Tsingtao tastes better when your parked ass-to-concrete, watching stray cats eat from trashcans in the moonlight)

I miss you already, Hong Kong