Granada, like Greece, was intimidating for me as writer. So many poets and artists have come before, fallen in love, and waxed poetic, glorifying this town for hundreds of years and thousands of pages.

Granada deserves all the effusive praise, from the thin, twisting streets of the Moorish Quarter to Baroque cathedrals, as well as her darling jamon shops, delicious cafes and jaw-dropping cocktail bars.

Let’s not leave out … The Alhambra. It’s the city’s main attraction, with its rust-hued stone towers, cascading fountains and rose-filled gardens; all brilliant, 13 centuries be damned.

I recently spent two days in Granada, on a story assignment for one of my editors. That piece has yet to publish, but I will link it here when it does.

Here are my personal takeaways, should you be planning an adventure.

You definitely need two full days to get a handle on this town. Or, give it a lifetime. So many have arrived and stayed forever.

“Give him alms, woman, as there is nothing in life like the pain of being blind in Granada.”

Mexican poet, Francisco A. de Icaza

Day 1

Tour the Alhambra … Do this first, right when you arrive. It will provide an ecompassing understanding of the town’s multi-cultural history. And, her current importance as a steward of Spain’s past. Book your tickets as soon as you know you’re going to Granada. More than 8,000 people visit per day, and it sells out nearly every day. Tickets are required, but guides are not. This is weird. Absolutely book a guide. There is hardly a single plaque to tell you anything inside this former city that was home to nearly 2,000 people. I went with Asier Ortega, a historian/guide who I found on Airbnb Experiences. His tour was incredible, succinctly covering the town’s vast history, but also delightful, tiny anecdotes, like visiting the post where Washington Irving scratched his initials, and inside jokes about the Alhambra’s rose varieties. If you book with Asier, he will handle getting your tickets lined up, too!

Then grab a sandwich … at Jardines Alberto. It’s directly across from the entrance to the Alhambra. Get the sandwich even if you aren’t hungry. Seriously, this might be the best sandwich of my entire life. Crunchy, chewy, freshly-baked bread is hit with a drizzle of peppery olive oil, encasing thin slices of fatty, salty jamon. It also has a spread of cold, pulverized, juicy tomato pulp that really sets it over the edge. Usually, restaurants right across from famous spots like Alhambra aren’t much to write home about. They tend to rest on their laurels, because tourist traffic allows for it. Not Alberto. Damn, this sandwich and the longed-for ghost of it.

Wander for hours … around the Albaicín neighborhood. This is Granada’s old, Moorish Quarter, and some of the highest vantages in the city. It’s painstakingly preserved since the 13th century, when Muslims fled the nearby city of Baeza and relocated here. The population swelled to 40,000 at one time, gifting the area deep Islamic architecture and dozens of mosques. Today, it’s a maze of whitewashed buildings, with colorful window boxes spilling pink geraniums and beautiful terra-cotta-tiled roofs. It’s a cobblestone calf workout, too, and flip-flops are unwise.

In the Albaicín, you must visit … Mirador de Morayma (shown far right, above) for the beautiful setting and the incredible Moroccan Chicken Pastilla. Make a reservation in advance. Morocco’s iconic Pigeon Pie is done justice here, with a flaky outer shell of crispy puff pastry dusted in powdered sugar. Inside, there is this fragrant, crumbling dark meat chicken, hit with cinnamon cumin, coriander, and crushed almonds. Goes beautifully with a glass of Jerez sherry or a Rioja, and the menu has a wonderful collection of both.

And, I really loved … having a beer at  El Huerto de Juan Ranas. This cliffside bar/restaurant is right below the Albaicín’s famous lookout spot––Mirador de San Nicolas. The views of the railing tables here are unstoppable. You look across the chasm to the Alhambra on the opposing hill, watching birds swoop and dive in the sunlight, while drinking cold beer and laughing with other tourists. I spent a half hour here. If I ever get back, I’m going to take a sketchbook and a good novel and spend three hours just sitting in this remarkable space.

the best table at El Huerto de Juan Ranas

DAY 2

Grab a breakfast coffee … at Magia Arabica. This place oozes North African charm, and loves sustainable, fair-trade practices. Plus, it’s located only a few steps from Granada’s towering, Baroque cathedral, best witnessed in the early morning light. You can take your hot coffee for a wander through the Alcaicería. It was originally an Arab silk souk, but now it’s pretty touristy, with lots of kitschy keychains and silk scarves. It’s a big draw in Granada, but I wouldn’t waste too much time with it.

More authentic shopping … is, instead, all around Plaza Bib-Rambla, a few blocks away. The plaza has a lovely, weekend flea market and a number of permanent al fresco cafes. The lanes surrounding this plaza are full of artistic, independent boutiques, selling everything from spices to jewelry to dresses to boots of Spanish leather (note: the Bob Dylan song should hummed while shopping).

Happy Hour … at one of Granada’s newest rooftop cocktail bars, atop the Palacio Gran Via hotel. Formerly a bank building, the hotel is a posh newcomer, with all those aspects we love about posh newcomers, from tiled floors to velvet sofas and chandeliers. The roof has a massive, tiled solarium and views out over historic Granada. Plus, damn fine spirits and well-balanced cocktails.

For dinner … I fell head over heels for tiny Chikito. It’s been around since the 1970s and you enter through a cramped, boisterous cellar bar. The restaurant is behind a huge, heavy, studded wooden door. Visually, it’s totally old-world Europe, with carved chairs at rustic tables, family photos on the walls, gregarious waiters and divine, grandmother-worthy dishes. I got the braised Oxtail. I’d go back tomorrow and do the same exact order. (Photo above, right, is the roof bar at Palacio Gran Via)

PRO TIP : United Airlines flies direct routes from Newark to Malaga, Spain several times a week, in peak seasons. Granada is a stunning, easy, 2-hour drive from Malaga. Catch the direct flight, book a rental car and off you go!

Bon Voyage, amigos.