VENICE, ITALY: Population 261,000

IT WAS … a sovereign state from 697 to 1797, before Napoleon took it over. It became part of the Kingdom of Italy in 1866.

THERE ARE … 118 islands that make up the landmass known as Venice and more than 400 bridges connecting them all.

CAREFUL … you don’t fall in. The toilets of the city flush directly into the canals.

THE CANALS … are not very deep. In many places, you could stand. The water averages 4 to 6 feet in depth.

EAT LUNCH … at Osteria Enoteca ai Artisti. Bright, day-caught seafood skews creative in technique and sauces.

GET RESERVATIONS … at Taverna Al Remer. You dinner down a dark alley, in a romantic, brick-wall cavern. Candles, wine, insane service, as well as the best risotto I’ve ever eaten.

WATCH A SUNRISE … from the Accademia Bridge. The day breaks just behind the Basilica Santa Maria della Salute. It can get crowded at the bridge in high season, when photographers arrive with tripods for the best shot. Be respectful of those who set earlier alarms.

WATCH A SUNSET … from a gondola. The ride costs $100 for 35 minutes. That seems insane, until you do it. Your heart breaks a little at the beauty of ancient world. Venice is a staggering wonder from the bowsprit of her oldest vehicle.

Sunrise, taken from the Accademia Bridge, 6:45am, September 2022
The last ‘St. Marks’ Vaporetto stop also has a great vantage for sunset, as the Grand Canal bleeds into the Lagoon.
Taken directly in front of Hotel Ca Di Dio, September of 2022
Piazza San Marco, at 6:15am