We recently spent 7 days entirely in Lisbon, save one tiny 20-minute road trip to the neighboring seaside town of Cascais. There’s something so indulgent about one town for an entire week of jam-packed travel. We never ate a bad meal, nor met an unpleasant person, but here are my favorites if you’re headed that way.

NITTY GRITTY DETAILS

Our Best Stay … was the Casa Oliver Guesthouse in Principe Real. Lisbon’s hotel scene is expensive. The visuals are pretty incredible––frescos and tile work, ancient buildings with grand, curving staircases and marble foyers––but with price tags of nearly $500/night for an entry-level room at the flashier places, it’s pretty painful financially. Casa Oliver was a score at $220/night, right in the heart of a vibrant neighborhood, on the main shopping street. The rooms feature extensive space, with desks, settee sofas and beautiful design touches. The staff was lovely and a decent breakfast comes free.

Drawbacks … our room was on the street, and thanks to the soaring ceilings, there was a considerable amount of echoing noise during the day. At night, it was possible to sleep decently well, however, we were awoken by cleaners in the hallway and taxis outside right at 6am. For light sleepers, request an interior room.

Walkability … is high in Lisbon, if you’re in great shape. Expect to get your workouts in naturally, as you will meet steep inclines and staircases across the town. Do not pack heels or even flip-flops. There’s no use.

Touristy with good reason … was the tuk-tuk tour. There are a dozen companies that offer them. Or, go out on the main tourist streets and haggle for one. They whizz you around town, explaining the various neighborhoods, focal points, monuments and buildings of note. It’s a nice way to begin your adventure, to get a lay of the land, and anyone with mobility issues will find this a really nice means to dive into the city.

Too touristy … would be the Alfama neighborhood. It’s lovely to walk around or take the tuk-tuk tour through, but don’t stay here. We’d suggest staying in Principe Real (if you like shopping, cute cafes and tree-lined streets), Chiado (if you are an up-all-night sort), and Baixa (if you want the commerical/museum district and fast access to the waterfront).

Photography pro tip … wander the laneways of the Moorish Quarter, just as the light is slipping past the buildings, and stay well into darkness. I got my best images among the narrow alleys here, as locals congregated for Happy Hour, and the lanterns came on, casting romantic shadows.

DAY 1

Breakfast :

Break Brunch Lisboa

Lisbon loves an open-faced, thick slice of toast, topped in some thematic celebration of flavors. The menu here is devoted to the toasts and bowls, as well as hearty fresh juices and upgrade coffees. There was an ode to Jewish nosh in smoked salmon, pickled onion, cream cheese and avocado. Chris got a a Turkish combo of yogurt, creamy eggs, harissa and suma. I kept sneaking my fork into his dish, where we scored an adorable window seat, perched above the other diners, looking directly out onto the sidewalk stageplay.

Lunch :

Pica-Pau

The cozy, minimalist interiors and artistic lighting, the simple small plates and exceptional wines, the smart-casual service and the location around the best shopping in Principe Real––I’d dine here once a week if I lived in Lisbon. Rather than re-write something perfectly written, I’ll just post their web site Concept statement.

“Here, there is no place for inventions, creations or deconstructions.

We are from the time of our grandparents and we remain completely given over to Pastéis de Bacalhau (Cod Cakes), Rissóis de Leitão (Suckling Pig Rissoles), Açorda (Prawn) and Pica-Pau . This everyday food takes us back to our childhoods and to flavors that everyone here knows so well. As in any Portuguese home, the table is always laid and the doors open to whoever comes to visit. We take care of the rest.”

Activity :

Maritime Museum

Portuguese mariners owned the seas in the 15th and 16th centuries. They were the finest sailors, the most technologically advanced of the day, and they established vast empires using wind and ropes, sails and strength. The Maritime Museum is really, really cool. They have a collection of the world’s oldest existing globes here, made from animal skins, weathered from the abundance of days and hours yawning between now and the 1530s. There are hundreds of wooden vessels, tattered maps, and grand oil portraits of captains on storm tossed waves. Tours are self-guided, and after our hour here, we wandered over to the enormous Monument of Discoveries, overlooking the channel. It’s all in a district called Belém, easily (and affordably) reached by metro train in about 20 minutes.

Pre-Dinner Drink :

Prado Wine Bar

We popped in here to rest aching feet. We chose it because it was directly in front of us. The place was immediately hipster-y as hell. Two severe women glanced up, from studying iPads no-doubt filled with biodynamic barcodes. They lazily gestured us to counter stools along a low-level bar. We didn’t impress them much––to quote Shania Twain––and I definitely saw an eye roll. I would have never mentioned this place, except for I fell in love with it. Not with the aloof service or the basic, minimalist decor, but with every glass poured. Go and trust in suggestions. Then, make multiple decisions about the share plates, which change frequently. Tomato sauce and chickpeas, sardines on toast, acorn ham with smoked quail egg––it’s all incredible and honestly tough to stop eating, if you must save room for dinner.

Dinner :

Gunpowder Lisboa

Gunpowder was my very very very favorite meal of the entire trip––and in that statement, I’m including the nine days I spent in Italy and Istanbul prior to finding Gunpowder. Why? Part of it was the evening. We’d had a fantastic day, the night was unspooling before us, with no agenda. I had worked off lunch on steep streets, and I was very hungry. Chris fired up his iPhone to see what was nearby, asking if I’d be into high-end Indian for dinner. Suddenly, nothing sounded better. There was an open reservation, and we arrived to the dark and sexy downstairs, a marble bar bathed in amber and charcoal and a cacophony of happy drinkers. The waitstaff is gregarious, and a dapper man led us upstairs, where it was quieter, but still lively. At our window seat, we dug into inventions like the savory-sweet lamb donut (dear god, don’t skip it), a fiery Achari Chicken Tikka and bright, punchy pisco sours. Each plate was a burst of color and flavor, almost too beautiful to cut into; impossible to stop once you did. I begged to eat here the next night. Chris wanted Piri-Piri chicken instead. We are getting divorced if this ever happens again.

DAY 2

Shopping :

The Principe Real Neighborhood

Start around the Jardim Fialho de Almeida, a tiny park surrounded by great cafes, bakeries, wine shops and a gelato pitstop. There’s Näz for basic tees and sneakers, the Fable bookshop, Luis Lopes for antiques, and Lost in India, which has the most beautiful hand-painted bowls and bright saris. Did we buy a full-sized, painted dog bowl to bring back in a suitcase? Yep. Was it a total bitch to pack? Sure was. Worth it? Yuh huh.

From the little park, head uphill to the main drag of Principe Real––Rua Escola Politécnica. Along both sides of this road, you’ll find more than a dozen shops, from homewares and ceramics to luxury fashion, expensive shoes, jewelry. Don’t miss Embaixada, a great multi-vendor concept shop, inside of a 19th-century palace with Arabian design. It’s a photographer’s daydream, as well.

Lunch :

Magnolia Bistrot & Wine Bar

“Do I want wine? It’s only 11am.”

“You’re in Portugal! I feel you must!”

It’s lovely to come here and bask in the sunshine after wandering around. The food is thoughtful without being too precious; a farmer’s market on a plate. Unironically, Magnolia sponsors a small weekend farmer’s market, but we missed that. Get some shakshuka with fresh pita, a flatbread with halloumi and Greek yogurt, or even say ‘fuck it,’ and just eat gluten-free pecan pie and drink loads of green wine.

Activity :

Sailboat Tour

We booked via the Get Your Guide web site, with this captain. I hate that I cannot remember his name, but he was in his forties, delightful and we had a private, 2-hour tour along the Tagus at sunset for $200. There are dozens of operators offering this, and we chose our last night to set sail. It was a really nice way to cap off a perfect week of exploring the city.

Pre-Dinner :

Katsu Asian Bistro

A perfect large city offers not only a sense of self in food, but also a welcoming of international flavors. Lisbon does not disappoint with international fare. Sure, have the tapas and the wine and the piri piri chicken, of course. But also go out for Indian, Nordic, Cambodian or Greek. Katsu is a tiny, garage-styled little spot near the waterfront, focused around Japanese and Chinese preparations, from steaming dumplings to a bomb-ass chicken katsu sandwich. It’s fried. It has the perfect chewy bread, the cold Kewpie mayo, the tart moment of pickles. Washed down with a Japanese rice beer? Hot damn. Yes.

Dinner :

Piri Piri Chicken

It’s a national dish. Ya gotta do it. We chose to go to a long-time hot spot called Frangasqueira Nacional. We got there at 6pm to ensure a seat. This place gets packed, apparently, but we had no issue. The restaurant is divided into two sections, and you can see the grill full of charcoal and blistering chicken skin before you even get in the door. We got two cold beers, a massive platter of piri piri chicken and ribs, plus some sausage and a side of rice. I might still be full. The next day, we snagged some African piri piri and some Portuguese classic style from a little bodega shop. We’ve since slathered it on chicken wings at home. Absolutely a must eat when in town, and this place is a great choice.

Post-Dinner Drinks :

After Dark Izakaya

Low light, glistening tile work, busy wallpaper and hushed conversations. Intricate, Japanese inspired cocktails, sexy staff with sleeves of tattoos and wagyu nigiri. Morrissey on the stereo. A chewy little piece of pickled ginger on a cocktail skewer. A bathroom bathed in pink light and interesting art. A moment where time stops, and you just exist with your partner-in-crime, hatching plans for future travels or remembering a moment from long ago, while ordering oysters paired with fine sake. This is that bar. This is that time capsule, where late night shenanigans are welcome and a third drink is a perfectly divine, disastrous decision. Only open Thursday to Saturday, 7pm to 11pm.