Monti & Esquiline Hill

For: Boutique Shopping & Architecture Porn

Beautiful apartments in Monti

Gianicolo Park

For: The best sunset perch

Come early at sunset, claim your spot on the front wall and watch Rome turn a molten gold at dusk. Or, ogle the incredible Acqua Paolo Fountain. The backside of the park is no slub, either, with ample Umbrella Pines and a view directly down to St. Peter’s Basilica.

Testaccio

For: Pizza, street art, & a killer market

The best pizza of my life? Could be. Don’t skip Casa Munca, inside the Testaccio market

Testaccio Market is a covered, modern food hall in one of Rome’s most-delightful, working-class neighborhoods. Stalls, like Casa Munca, tend specialize in a food item, like these incredible, mouthwatering, cool combination pizzas. I’d die a happy woman if my last bite was the guanciale or the sweet fig pizza. Or that one with gooey mozzarella and the perfect amount of ripe tomato sauce. Come hungry; leave absurdly stuffed.

Da Danilo & Palazzo Manfredi

For: Cacio Pepe and Colosseum-view cocktails

Da Danilo is a tiny trattoria, with seven tables, walls lined with old photos and cacio pepe served tableside. The pasta is pulled from a giant bowl and showered in fresh Parmesan until you beg them to stop.

Palazzo Manfredi requires reservations, and offers two, 2-hour seating blocks per evening. The outdoor bar is called The Court, and it faces the Colosseum, with uninterrupted views. An extensive, nearly too-inventive drink menu alters classics, from Jungle Birds to Negronis, featuring wacky ingredients and nearly excruciating prices. Expect to pay $25 per drink, but also expect a courtesy tower of fresh sandwiches, olives and cheeses. It will suffice for a light dinner, making it easier to swallow the cost.